We may not be considered the best, we just work hard to become it
For me, the tailor’s shop is not simply a place where to work, but it is the place where I can express what I really am. Because at the end, we are what we do, day after day
The cut and the linings
"Lotti Francesco, order 067, two "pinces ", pockets sewed.
Here, where I have been working since years, the cut follows a secular tradition: the mark with chalk, the draw of the shape on the fabric, scissors with a clear and precise cut. For the trousers, the cut proceeds in this way: we start with the linings for the pockets, then with the front placket (strip of overlapped cloth used to cover the buttons). Then we proceed with the lining for the pocket and then with the one for the inner of the belt. According to a rite that my hands know by heart, I start with the hems. To follow, I proceed with the marking of the back pockets, a fundamental step for the next stages. The threads - handmade sewed and recognizable from the industrial processing because of the thread that runs behind the seam in order to block the thread itself - are worked on both sides through the "half points ". They have a fundamental function in terms of wearability. For a really handmade trousers of an high craftsmanship, the pockets are basted with a particularly resistant and creased fabric, and therefore sewn with thick stitches.
The fitting test
The customer arrives for the first fitting test. For me, every time it's like an exam, a test, you really never get used to it. The trousers, the customer, the mirror, the private area, a coffee left half drunk. I observe, looking for imperfections and corrections to be made. I realize we are far from the ideal wearability. The garment is then un-sewed completely and reshaped whit the cut. Then after that we go on with the fabric for the front and back pocket, the right and left front placket, the fabric belt, the pocket and loops. Once assembled, we are ready for a second fitting test.
In the chosen model, the pinces enhance elegance and gracefulness to the fabric. The pinces are folds with internal seams, in order to shape and give a particular volume to the trousers. In the model chosen by Mr. Lotti, the pinces are two and positioned on the front part of the trousers.
After having sewed the trousers from the end of the front placket to the whole side of the crotch, I continue with the creation of the belt, sewing all the stitches always rigorously by hand. The front placket should be well reinforced. Between one coffee and another, I insert inside the waistline what we define the "back belt", that is a strip of cotton with wide folds, ironed, that supports the waist; it follows through the front placket to the backside, where the typical V rip, increases and guarantees comfort and wearability. The belt is assembled with a canvas composed mostly of horsehair, that is useful to maintain shape and at the same time elasticity in one of the critical points of the trousers itself. They are treated with a particular processing without using any chemical or synthetic material. Always on the belt, I apply the smooth canape, a strong canvas that usually applies also as reinforcement of the breasts of the jackets.
Hand-crafting always assumes a margin of error. The 95% of sartorial trousers are the result of my achievements and movements. I’m working now at the gold color joists, unique features and a seal of a handmade work , then to the half points and pinces. I have to pay attention to the double stitching on the right, sturdy inside, more elastic on the outside. Belt loops are a itemized and fundamental step. The hem on the bottom, lastly, must be finished with a heel that must stick out by 1 mm, to give more weight to the fabric by dropping it on the shoe gracefully.
The eyelets are handmade embroidered; The one on the flap is oblique in order to facilitate the buttoning, instead, the lapel is held up by an internal button. Before finishing the work, with needle and thread I start to reinforce all the critical points of the garment, so that the trousers last in time and resists to use and washes. Last step before being finished, is the quality control, here next to me a colleague who will finally check it.
Today I go home, too. But tomorrow I’ll be here again, to baste, to try to be up to an unequalled and amazing piece of art.